Floral prints in fashion, textiles, graphic design, and homeware will be ubiquitous this spring. Not just for grannies and twee Victorian aesthetes, these florals look as contemporary as ever. Here, we take a look at the most iconic floral prints, where and when they originated, their cultural significance and where they can be viewed and appreciated throughout the world. In a world of ever-changing trends, these floral prints have stood the test of time, weaving their way into the fabric of cultural history. Whether adorning walls, textiles, or garments, these designs have timeless allure.
Liberty
Creator: British merchant Arthur Lasenby Liberty, founder of Liberty & Co.
Cultural Significance: Introduced in the late 19th century by Arthur Lasenby Liberty, the Liberty print has become synonymous with English heritage and craftsmanship. Inspired by the flora and fauna of the Arts and Crafts movement, Liberty prints are characterized by intricate, small-scalefloral patterns. These prints have graced everything from fashion garments to home decor, symbolizing timeless sophistication.
Where to View: At the Liberty London flagship store in Regent Street, London, you can explore both the heritage fabrics and contemporary dresses adorned with modern iterations of Liberty prints. UK fashion designer Margaret Howell is also known for her use of Liberty prints.
Toile de Jouy
Creator: French textile manufacturer Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf.
Cultural Significance: Toile de Jouy, developed in the 18th century, is a scenic floral print that tells a story. Oberkampf pioneered this style, featuring pastoral scenes, floral motifs, and narrative vignettes, often in blue or red. Toile de Jouy has transcended time and continues to grace interiors, especially in curtains, bedding and wallpaper.
Where to View: The Musée de la Toile de Jouy in Jouy-en-Josas, France, houses an extensive collection of toile fabrics,providing insight into their historical and cultural significance. It is developing a unique toile pattern to celebrate the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris. French fashion house Hermès has been known to use the print for its signature silk scarves depicting gardens and flowers.
Marimekko Unikko
Creator: Maija Isola for Marimekko
Cultural Significance: Unveiled in 1964, the Marimekko Unikko print is an iconic symbol of Finnish design, celebrating its 60th Anniversary this year. Florals were originally excluded from Marimekko’s collection because founder Armi Ratia believed flowers could not be captured inprints. But designer Maija Isola's bold and vibrant abstract poppy pattern defied the conventions of the time and became a symbol of the progressive 1960s. The print continues to influence contemporary design, celebrating individualityand creativity, as we saw at the Fleurs de Villes show in Melbourne, where a mannequin was inspired by the print.
Where to View: The Design Museum in Helsinki, Finland, showcases Marimekko's rich design history, including the famous Unikko print. Marimekko has a limited edition collection to celebrate the 60th Anniversary, and a documentary, Maija Isola: Master of Colour and Form examines the designer’s impact on the world of graphic design.
Chintz
Creator: Originated in Golconda, India, popularized by Dutchand English manufacturers.
Cultural Significance: Chintz, originating from the Hindiword 'chint,' meaning spotted or variegated, gained popularity in the 17th century. These vibrant, block-printed floral-patterned calico fabrics became highly coveted in Europe, especially in England and the Netherlands. Chintz fabrics adorned homes, clothing, and furnishings, symbolizing wealth and exoticism.
Where to View: The Victoria and Albert Museum in London holds an extensive collection of historic chintz textiles, offering a journey through the fabric's cultural significance. Antique chintz upholstered club chairs currently sell for thousands of dollars on First Dibs.
Golden Lily
Creator: English designer William Morris
Cultural Significance: A prominent figure in the Arts and Crafts movement, William Morris designed the Golden Lily pattern in the late 19th century. Known for its intricate, stylized lilies and scrolling foliage, this print embodies the principles of Arts and Crafts, emphasizing handcrafted quality and nature-inspired design.
Where to View: The William Morris Gallery in Walthamstow, London, celebrates the life and work of William Morris, featuring his iconic Golden Lily pattern among other designs.
Hawaiian Prints
Creator: The origin of Hawai’ian prints can be traced to the early 1930s, when the Honolulu-based dry goods store "Musa-Shiya the Shirtmaker" under the proprietorship of Kōichirō Miyamoto, started making shirts out of colourful Japanese prints.
Cultural Significance: The Hawaiian shirt (also known as the Aloha Shirt), adorned with vibrant and exotic floral prints, often depicting palm trees and white ginger flowers, emerged in the 1930s and gained popularity in the 1940s. It represents a fusion of Polynesian aesthetics and American casual wear. These prints evoke a carefree, tropical lifestyle, and were popularized during the post-war era in the U.S. Vintage Aloha Shirts are currently highly collectible.
Where to View: The Bishop Museum in Honolulu, Hawaii, offers a glimpse into the history of Hawaiian shirts and their cultural significance. David Shepard is a contemporary Hawai’ian artist and designer of Aloha wear with hand-drawn botanical prints, and Gucci’s Aloha shirts go for upwards of $1,500.