The Story of Eltham Palace

London

By
Kate Hull
The art deco entrance hall of the main house (©Historic England)
Portrait of the Courtaulds with their pet lemur, by Leonard Campbell Taylor (©Bridgeman Images)
The north moat at Eltham Palace (©Historic England)
Pool in the Sunken Rose Garden, surrounded by lavender in the summer (©Historic England)

In the south-east of London, Eltham Palace and Gardens is a unique marriage between a medieval and Tudor palace and a 1930s millionaire’s mansion. From the 14th to the 16th century it was an important royal palace, where monarchs often stayed and hunted in the surrounding parks. After centuries of neglect, Eltham was leased to Stephen and Virginia Courtauld in 1933, who built an up-to-the-minute house here that incorporated the medieval great hall. The result was a masterpiece of 20th-century design. Ahead of our exhibition July 13-21, Fleurs de Villes dives into the glamorous history of Eltham Palace.

MEET THE COURTAULDS

Stephen Courtauld’s family owned a highly successful rayon-manufacturing business, generating a substantial fortune that he used for cultural and philanthropic pursuits. Virginia (Ginie) was the daughter of an Italian father and Hungarian mother, and had been a marchioness by her first marriage. Though they had very different temperaments – Ginie was vivacious and a social butterfly, Stephen an intellectual and reserved – they were both enthusiastic supporters of the arts and were well-travelled, with an extensive collection of art and furniture.

In the 1930s, Stephen and Virginia leased Eltham Palace and hired architects Seely and Paget to build a modern house for them to adjoin with the still-standing great hall. Leading designers and craftsmen were employed to create a range of lavish interiors and outstanding gardens. More than six-hundred years after it was first gifted to King Edward II, Eltham Palace was now an outstanding example of 1930s design and technology.

THE GARDENS: A HORTICULTURAL PARADISE

Like any royal residence, gardens at Eltham Palace were always an important feature, changing and adapting with the estate throughout its history. In medieval times, the King’s chambers would have allowed access to a privy garden, with wider grounds used for the leisure of the court. In the 18th century, the grounds were used as a farm. In the 19th century it hosted two gentlemen’s residences, with flower and kitchen gardens planted in the moat. In the early 1900s, an annual Eltham Rose and Horticultural show was held on the grounds.

The Courtaulds were both keen horticulturalists – Stephen with a love for orchids, and Virginia for roses. In the 1930s, Eltham Palace had a glasshouse dedicated to Stephen’s orchids, many of which were collected during the Courtaulds’ travels on their motor yacht. Stephen took a particular interest in Kew Gardens (as evidenced in his bedroom wallpaper), and he enlisted John Gilmour, assistant director of the gardens, to advise him on his orchids. Later, in their Zimbabwean home, the couple cultivated a white rose called the ‘Virginia Courtauld’.

The gardens, now restored to closely match their 1930s designs, incorporate exposed palace ruins with manicured flower beds and classical statues. A rare and fine example of an Arts and Crafts garden, with an intriguing mix of medieval features woven into the landscape. The Sunken Rose Garden planted with scented hybrid musk roses, and the Rock Garden with a series of pools and cascades. A botanical highlight is the gorgeous herbaceous border created by award-winning garden designer Isabelle Van Groeningen, reaching its peak in late summer and featuring 18 different varieties of poppy, 21 different varieties of peony and 20 different varieties of Clematis.

THE FLOWER ROOM

The Courtauld’s love for flowers and botanicals was evident throughout the house. Virginia’s bathroom would have smelled of gardenia - her favourite scent. Stephen’s bedroom wall was papered with a block print design of Kew Gardens.

A designated Flower Room was used for preparing and arranging cut flowers supplied by the gardener, as floral arrangements adorned the house. About 90 glass, porcelain, and pottery flowers vases and bowls were stored there in the 1930s. Within the Flower Room, a bamboo ladder led up into the room above: Mah-Jongg’s quarters. Mah-Jongg or ‘Jonggy’ (pronounced ‘Johnny’) was Ginie’s ring-tailed lemur who was a much loved pet for 15 years. One can only hope the gardener and Jonggy were on good terms, as the pampered lemur famously had a habit of biting anyone he did not like.

In the south-east of London, Eltham Palace and Gardens is a unique marriage between a medieval and Tudor palace and a 1930s millionaire’s mansion. From the 14th to the 16th century it was an important royal palace, where monarchs often stayed and hunted in the surrounding parks. After centuries of neglect, Eltham was leased to Stephen and Virginia Courtauld in 1933, who built an up-to-the-minute house here that incorporated the medieval great hall. The result was a masterpiece of 20th-century design. Ahead of our exhibition July 13-21, Fleurs de Villes dives into the glamorous history of Eltham Palace.

MEET THE COURTAULDS

Stephen Courtauld’s family owned a highly successful rayon-manufacturing business, generating a substantial fortune that he used for cultural and philanthropic pursuits. Virginia (Ginie) was the daughter of an Italian father and Hungarian mother, and had been a marchioness by her first marriage. Though they had very different temperaments – Ginie was vivacious and a social butterfly, Stephen an intellectual and reserved – they were both enthusiastic supporters of the arts and were well-travelled, with an extensive collection of art and furniture.

In the 1930s, Stephen and Virginia leased Eltham Palace and hired architects Seely and Paget to build a modern house for them to adjoin with the still-standing great hall. Leading designers and craftsmen were employed to create a range of lavish interiors and outstanding gardens. More than six-hundred years after it was first gifted to King Edward II, Eltham Palace was now an outstanding example of 1930s design and technology.

The art deco entrance hall of the main house (©Historic England)
The art deco entrance hall of the main house (©Historic England)
Portrait of the Courtaulds with their pet lemur, by Leonard Campbell Taylor (©Bridgeman Images)
Portrait of the Courtaulds with their pet lemur, by Leonard Campbell Taylor (©Bridgeman Images)
THE GARDENS: A HORTICULTURAL PARADISE

Like any royal residence, gardens at Eltham Palace were always an important feature, changing and adapting with the estate throughout its history. In medieval times, the King’s chambers would have allowed access to a privy garden, with wider grounds used for the leisure of the court. In the 18th century, the grounds were used as a farm. In the 19th century it hosted two gentlemen’s residences, with flower and kitchen gardens planted in the moat. In the early 1900s, an annual Eltham Rose and Horticultural show was held on the grounds.

The Courtaulds were both keen horticulturalists – Stephen with a love for orchids, and Virginia for roses. In the 1930s, Eltham Palace had a glasshouse dedicated to Stephen’s orchids, many of which were collected during the Courtaulds’ travels on their motor yacht. Stephen took a particular interest in Kew Gardens (as evidenced in his bedroom wallpaper), and he enlisted John Gilmour, assistant director of the gardens, to advise him on his orchids. Later, in their Zimbabwean home, the couple cultivated a white rose called the ‘Virginia Courtauld’.

The gardens, now restored to closely match their 1930s designs, incorporate exposed palace ruins with manicured flower beds and classical statues. A rare and fine example of an Arts and Crafts garden, with an intriguing mix of medieval features woven into the landscape. The Sunken Rose Garden planted with scented hybrid musk roses, and the Rock Garden with a series of pools and cascades. A botanical highlight is the gorgeous herbaceous border created by award-winning garden designer Isabelle Van Groeningen, reaching its peak in late summer and featuring 18 different varieties of poppy, 21 different varieties of peony and 20 different varieties of Clematis.

THE FLOWER ROOM

The Courtauld’s love for flowers and botanicals was evident throughout the house. Virginia’s bathroom would have smelled of gardenia - her favourite scent. Stephen’s bedroom wall was papered with a block print design of Kew Gardens.

A designated Flower Room was used for preparing and arranging cut flowers supplied by the gardener, as floral arrangements adorned the house. About 90 glass, porcelain, and pottery flowers vases and bowls were stored there in the 1930s. Within the Flower Room, a bamboo ladder led up into the room above: Mah-Jongg’s quarters. Mah-Jongg or ‘Jonggy’ (pronounced ‘Johnny’) was Ginie’s ring-tailed lemur who was a much loved pet for 15 years. One can only hope the gardener and Jonggy were on good terms, as the pampered lemur famously had a habit of biting anyone he did not like.

The north moat at Eltham Palace (©Historic England)
The north moat at Eltham Palace (©Historic England)
Pool in the Sunken Rose Garden, surrounded by lavender in the summer (©Historic England)
Pool in the Sunken Rose Garden, surrounded by lavender in the summer (©Historic England)
A ROYAL PALACE

Eltham Palace was one of the favourite residences of King Edward IV, and it was under his reign that the great hall was built for feasting and celebrations. He and his wife, Elizabeth Woodville, were key figures in the Wars of the Roses, a series of civil wars between the York and Lancaster houses. He is often shown with a white rose, an emblem of the York house, which features throughout Eltham Palace in stained glass windows and wood carvings.

Henry VIII, best known for his six marriages, spent much of his childhood at Eltham. His family emblem was the Tudor rose, with both white and red petals, representing the York and Lancaster houses of his parents. In one account from 1499, a nine-year-old then-Prince Henry challenged the visiting Dutch philosopher Erasmus to write a poem (which he did, in three days).

VIP’S AT ELTHAM

In more recent history, the palace has had an assortment of royal and celebrity visitors. Queen Mary of Teck, grandmother to Queen Elizabeth II, took tea at Eltham Palace on a few occasions, commenting on the “charming moat garden”.

The Queen Mother, then the Duchess of York, visited in 1936. Though she “thought some of the modern part a little overdone”, she noted the fantastic food and “good champagne”. In 1970, the late Queen Elizabeth II visited Eltham Palace to celebrate the Golden Jubilee of the Royal Army Education Corps.

Gracie Fields, British actress, comedian, and “The Biggest Aspidistra in the World” singer, was a frequent guest at Eltham Palace, as a star in many of the movies produced by Ealing Studios, for which Stephen was on the board. 

ELTHAM PALACE TODAY

The Courtaulds left Eltham in 1944 and the site was occupied by Army education units until 1992. English heritage took over in 1995 and since then has been repairing and restoring the 1930s house and gardens. Visitors can walk through the restored house, gardens, and great hall, gaining a fuller picture of life and Eltham Palace in the 1930s. 

This July 13 - 21, Fleurs de Villes exhibits our famous fresh floral mannequins and other stunning floral displays around the mansion and gardens, all inspired by the glamorous history of Eltham Palace, and its remarkable former residents and guests who left an indelible mark throughout its history. Join us for exclusive Jazz & Cocktail Evenings and Guided Tours & Cream Tea - learn more here.

Queen Elizabeth II visitng Eltham in 1970 (©Historic England)
Queen Elizabeth II visitng Eltham in 1970 (©Historic England)
The oak roof of the great hall at Eltham (©Historic England)
The oak roof of the great hall at Eltham (©Historic England)
Pool in the Sunken Rose Garden, surrounded by lavender in the summer (©Historic England)
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