Worn by princesses, first ladies and film stars, as we approach the 10th anniversary of Oscar de la Renta’s passing, we look back at the impact his designs had and continue to have, on the world of society, fashion and the floral arts.

Oscar de la Renta, the iconic Dominican-American fashion designer, left an indelible mark on the fashion world with his timeless creations, showcasing an unparalleled mastery of intricate details, luxurious fabrics, and a penchant for incorporating nature’s beauty and colours into his designs, particularly through the use of flowers and floral prints. 

‍

HISTORY AND LEGACY

Born in 1932, in the Dominican Republic, Oscar de la Renta began his fashion journey at an early age. Growing up with six sisters, he was expected to join the family’s accounting business, but he managed to convince his parents to send him to art school instead. After studying painting at the Academy of San Fernando in Madrid, he transitioned to fashion design, apprenticing with renowned Spanish couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga. De la Renta's talent and passion led him to work for prestigious fashion houses, including Lanvin in Paris, before launching his eponymous label in 1965 in New York.

‍

OSCAR’S FLOWERS

An avid gardener, the designer said it was his way of relaxing and another way to play with colour. This fascination often found its way into his designs, especially one of his preferred blooms, the fragrant gardenia. The carnation was also a favourite, and he is said to have worn a deep red carnation in his top button hole as a young man in Madrid, when he began sketching dresses in art school. 

‍

FLORAL FRAGRANCE

In 1977 the designer launched his first fragrance, Oscar, a heady floral scent including lavender, rosemary and carnation, with Elizabeth Arden. The bottle featured a dew drop, harkening back to his youth when he would collect dew from the flowers in his mother’s garden thinking he could make perfume. The classic and elegant scent epitomized its namesake, and became a best-seller in 70 countries. The relationship ultimately dissolved in a legal battle with L’Oreal, but the designer went on to create several more floral fragrances, which he was known to have handed out backstage to the models at New York Fashion Week.

FLORAL DRESSES FOR ICONS

Oscar de la Renta's affinity for floral motifs became a signature element of his designs, worn by everyone from Audrey Hepburn to Princess Diana. He was a staple in the White House for five decades. Jackie Kennedy was such a fan that, although de la Renta was based in Paris at the time she was First Lady (she had to be seen wearing American designers) she loved her de la Renta’s so much she had her aides sew Americal labels into them, the late designer told The Telegraph in an interview. 

First Lady Laura Bush donned a memorable Oscar de la Renta gown adorned with delicate blue and silver flowers for the 2005 Presidential Inauguration Ball. Later, her daughter Jenna Bush would wear an Oscar de la Renta wedding gown. Nancy Reagan (who was “model size” according to the designer) Michelle Obama, and other first ladies continued the tradition. 

De la Renta’s most outré floral confections often appeared on celebrities on the red carpet, especially at New York’s Met Ball, always know for its fashionable invitees. His designs have been chosen by contemporary superstars such as Celine Dion and Katy Perry, as well as prominent actresses Scarlett Johanssen and Penolope Cruz. And who could forget Sarah Jessica Parker, who wore de la Renta almost exclusively on the red carpet? 

‍

FRIEND OF FASHION EDITORS

A formidable entertainer and networker, the designer also forged many connections with fashion editors, starting with his first wife Françoise de Langlade who was the editor of French Vogue at the time, and made many important introductions. Similarly, American Vogue editor Anna Wintour, a friend, was photographed by his side regularly, and always featured his gowns prominently in her spreads. She even collected and wore vintage de la Renta pieces to events, such as a multi-tiered floral maxi skirt from the designer’s time at Balmain. Amal Clooney’s white floral wedding gown, custom made by de la Renta, was featured in a lavish spread in Vogue, photographed by the great Annie Leibovitz.

FAMOUS COLLECTIONS

Throughout his illustrious career, de la Renta presented numerous collections that celebrated the beauty of flowers. The Resort 2013 collection, for instance, showcased vibrant floral patterns in a riot of colours, reflecting the designer's perpetual love affair with nature and Latin roots. Additionally, the Spring/Summer 2014 collection, which would turn out to be his last, featured romantic floral prints on flowing gowns, embodying de la Renta's commitment to creating timeless, feminine pieces (I don’t know how to do casual, he once said).

‍

SPRING/SUMMBER 2024: ORGANZA POPPIES IN BLOOM

Even in his absence, the family-run Oscar de la Renta label continues to honour the designer's legacy, evident in the latest Spring/Summer 2024 collection. The runway was a virtual garden of blossoms, with models adorned in ethereal floral tulle cocktail dresses with oversized organza poppies that paid homage to de la Renta's love of gardening. One evening gown in this collection is embellished with lily of the valley, and a paper-cut floral technique was showcased in a red gown worn by Selean Gomez at the 2023 MTV Music Video Awards. Other notable pieces include a floor-length gown in soft pastel hues adorned with hand-painted poppies reminiscent of the designer's early influences in painting; another standout is a cocktail dress featuring three-dimensional floral appliqués.

The collection features a diverse array of floral prints, ranging from bold and abstract to delicate and detailed. Dresses with cascading ruffles, voluminous skirts, and intricately embroidered flowers showcased the label's house signature threadwork, commitment to craftsmanship, and attention to detail.

Oscar de la Renta's influence on fashion, particularly in the realm of floral designs, remains as potent as ever. His ability to capture the essence of femininity and grace through floral-infused creations has become a hallmark of the brand. As the Spring/Summer 2024 collection beautifully attests, the legacy of Oscar de la Renta continues to bloom, ensuring that his timeless elegance lives on in every petal and stitch.